The one time when protein overload may be a good thing

For the past week or so, I got a little lazy with my moisturizing routine.  In an effort to save time, I skipped a few steps. Instead of applying liquid, then moisturizer then oil, I only did two steps.  First I misted my hair with Evian Facial Mist spray then finished up with coconut oil.  This routine was pretty much repeated daily since I traveled all week.

While all of this was happening, I wasn't thinking about the eventual outcome of using coconut oil every day.  As you might recall, coconut oil is said to have the power to provide the hair strand with protein.  Each day my hair was essentially absorbing protein. By the time the week was over, my hair was feeling stiff and didn't absorb moisture as well.

On Sunday I decided to touch up my roots (p.s. my last touch up was about 3 months ago. Normally I like to wait 4 months but I experienced quite a bit of growth from taking bamboo tea regularly during the late summer months) .  At the start of the relaxer process, I put a little coconut oil on my hair to help protect the hair from the relaxer run-off.  It wasn't until half way through the relaxer process that it dawned on me that the stiffness I was experiencing was probably a result of all that layering of coconut oil.  But here's the thing.  By the time I rinsed the relaxer out, I realized just how great my hair felt.  The stiffness went away but my hair still felt strong and resilient.

Then I thought, perhaps the additional protein within my strands added another layer of protection during the chemical process.  Typically, after a touch up, I go through this rebuilding phase where I pamper my hair with protein rich products to put strength back into my hair.  This time was different.  I should mention that I still did the responsible thing by adding a little pure protein + silk amino acids to my relaxer mix.  Everything worked together to create a wonderful symphony of strength.  Heck, I didn't need to break out my Tiger Reconstructor spray. 

I will definitely pay close attention to my protein levels prior to relaxing in the future.  One thing I'll do differently next time will be to provide as much protein lovin' to my roots as to the rest of my length.  After all, that's the hair closest to the line of fire. A day or so has passed and everything is just peachy keen.  Now that my hair feels pretty balanced, I'll go back to my regularly scheduled moisturizing routine.  At least now I have a strategy for when next wash day comes around.

New In | Nature's Bounty Hair, Skin & Nails gummies

Immediately after featuring this product in a past Instagram Beauty Secrets post, these interesting looking biotin treats were placed on my wish list.  A little time passed but I'm happy to say that I finally have a these biotin rich gummies within my clutches.

Let me just start off by saying these are REALLY good.  Too good to be considered a nutritional supplement.  I'm ashamed to say that I have taken way more than the recommended dosage.  Not because I'm trying to ramp up my nutrition but because these gummies are so good, I can't stop eating them.  Honestly, I can't tell you which tastes better, these or NeoCell's Beauty Bursts. Actually, they're both perfect.  

I'm just happy to have go to options whenever my sweet tooth kicks in.  Not only do they satisfy my cravings but they help support my hair regimen as well.  What more can I ask for?

Three things to do after a trim to prevent new split ends

This whole micro trimming thing has really got me thinking.  Since I'll slowly be eliminating a decent amount of length, I want to make sure the process is as effective as possible. What I want most is to protect the hair after each trim to ensure that retention is at its highest.

For a while now, I've nagging question about whether I should take additional actions right after trimming to prevent new split ends from forming.  Last week I picked up one of those mini sewing kits.  I had quite a difficult time threading the needle so I tried trimming off the end of the thread to make it easier.  But each time I cut a bit off, the end of the thread began to split. When I trimmed off the split, the same thing happened again.



Then I wondered if this was happening to my hair without my knowledge every time I trimmed. Next I reflected on what I could do avoid that dreaded outcome from taking place.  My very first thought was how glad I was to have found Nexxus' ProMend products.  If you recall correctly, they have the ability to actually bind split ends together, preventing them from moving up the shaft.  That would be a perfect post trim treatment.

If I want to take things to next level, I could cauterize my ends using an actual flame.  After first learning about this technique of permanently sealing the ends, I became super curious.  Curious enough to try a couple of times. No. My hair didn't burst into a huge ball of flames, like I first thought it would. My assessment is that the technique is effective in preventing splits from moving up the shaft.  So, if I wanted to use an extreme method of split end prevention, this would be it.



One last thing that I MUST do to protect my ends is practice heavy sealing.  Keeping the ends highly lubricated is the secret to retention.  This fall and winter I'm going to step it up and reach for thicker oil for my ends.  Maybe shea butter, castor oil or vitamin E.  Whichever the case, I'm sure my  newly trimmed ends will love it. Basically, I will be babying my ends before, during, and after each trim to make sure that everything stays on track.   And I vow to stick to this routine even if I know that I'll be trimming them off anyway.  This is so I can maintain the habit even as I slow down the frequency of my trims.

The end goal is retention, retention, retention.  I see this whole micro trimming thing as a serious weapon in this war on breakage.  Especially if you aren't big on protective styling like me. 

Crodabond CSA: The blend that claims to seal your cuticle layer shut.

I get all excited whenever I learn about a new hair care ingredient that promises to significantly impact the health of the hair.  There's a company by the name of Croda who manufactures active ingredients to improve the effectiveness of products.  I've been following them ever since I first learned of 18-MEA.  They were one of the only manufacturers who offered 18-MEA to hair care companies for use in their formulations.

Well it appears that the good people of Croda has done it yet again!  This time, they've developed a blend by the name of Crodabond CSA.  What is Crodabond CSA? It's probably the most revolutionary ingredient in cuticle protection since the creation of synthetic ceramides.  Actually, Crodabond CSA appears to behave in a way that is very similar to ceramides but seems to have longer term benefits.  Check out what they have to say about this amazing compound.

Crodabond™ CSA is designed to combat lifted cuticles. It was specifically engineered to seal down hair cuticles that have been damaged through coloring, bleaching, perming or thermal straightening. As an oligo ester derived from sebacic acid and hydrogenated caster oil, Crodabond™ CSA adheres to the lifted cuticles, cementing them together and smoothing out the hair fiber.

  According to this article, the wonderful effects of a smooth, intact cuticle layer can last for up to 14 days after treatment.  That's super impressive.  Can you imagine having smooth strands two weeks after washing?  Imagine how that could impact your breakage levels in between washes?   Unfortunately Croda doesn't manufacture its own commercial products nor do they sell their formulas to consumers.  So I asked myself, "how do I get my hands on Crodabond? I need to have this!"  So far, I was only able to find one brand featuring Crodabond.  Tigi Hair Reborn Sublime Smooth seems to contain a myriad of Croda formulations including their 18-MEA formula, Crotein Cashmere, which is a keratin blend made from wool fibers, and of course Hair Reborn also has Crodabond CSA to lay that cuticle layer down.

The more I contemplate on Hair Reborn, the more I desire need it.  Where else can I get such a wide variety of Croda's healthy hair cocktails in one bottle?  I'm not even phased by the price because this one bottle has so many amazing properties.  I can not pass this up. 

Micro Trimming Part II - Keys to making the process sucessful

We're on the topic of micro-trimming and how that could possibly be the answer to getting rid of thin ends for ever. I'm committed to taking off about 1/4 of length a month for the next six months (maybe more).  My goal is to cut off my current ends, over time, as my new growth comes in.  In essence, one should not lose much (if any) length using this process.

thick ends inspiration

Honestly, although this method is simple, it isn't easy.  I know that I'll be battling the mental block of having to cut ends that aren't breaking simply for the sake of thickness.  I can almost foresee the need for length taking over, tempting me to go back to my old ways.

I plan to make micro-trimming a dual focused process.  While trimming on a monthly basis, I'll also employ various strategies to promote healthy growth to balance the loss of length.  Wouldn't it be great to have thicker ends AND gain length at the same time?  That's literally a dream come true.

I actually think this is VERY possible.  It's been 1 day since my first micro trim.  When I manipulate my hair now, one very noticeable difference is how much breakage has reduced.  I anticipate a reduction of daily manipulation related breakage + a reduction of detangling related breakage on wash day.  As I remain consistent in the monthly micro trims, this reduction in breakage will be multiplied over time. Meaning, I will retain length simply from having trimmed, healthy ends for such an extended period.  Even though I'm cutting of 1/4 inches of hair a month,  I may actually retain more length in the long run.

But what's most important is that I focus on maximizing growth over the next six months.  Since we are entering into the fall & winter season, I've got to be even more diligent.  As part of my strategy, I will be going back to regular supplementation.  I can't wait for my first shipment of Beautifully Bamboo Hair, Skin & Nails supplement to arrive.  It's a supplement that I've formulated to include everything I've ever wanted in a hair vitamin.  More details on that later but the vitamins should be ready in early October (*EXCITED*).  I've also gotta make sure to eat healthy, drink loads of water and keep circulation high by focusing on cardio sessions.  Obviously, I'll be doing scalp massages and other growth promoting activities as well.  

I remember feeling terrible, a couple of years ago, because of having to chop off several inches of unproductive length.  Although my hair looked great, I was depressed over the whole ordeal.  Micro-trimming should provide me similar results while retaining/gaining length.  That's why I chose an aggressive strategy in the beginning.  Eventually, I'll then my trimming schedule to bi-monthly or quarterly once I've nailed the process.  

Let's do this!

Happy Endings | The Micro Trimming Method for Thick Full Ends

Let me ask you a question.  If you could be the same length as you are now (or maybe a little longer) but instead of tapered, uneven, or thin ends, you can have a full thick ends.  Would you want that?  Of course you would. What if I told you that there could be a way to achieve that. Would you be interested?

Before I explain the specifics let me first set the tone for our conversation.  I have had many internal conversations wondering how those of us who chemically treat our hair can have thickness all the way down to our ends.  It seemed almost impossible short of doing a major chop.  But even after a chop the length seems to eventually return to its former state.  Notice how many people are doing mini-chops after a touchup to eliminate wispy ends.  It just seems like a never ending problem.

The solution to this issue may come in the form of a method called micro trimming. This is where one trims off 1/4 to 1/2 inches of hair monthly, every other month or quarterly for the purposes of creating thicker, fuller ends.  Essentially, the regular trims will remove my current ends, and, as new hair grows in, my new length will take over the place where my old (thin) ends once were.

This method is one that requires a long term commitment.  No longer will I only be focusing on the short term needs of my hair (such as dryness, breakage, etc) I must also have a long term strategy in place.  Since it's #FearlessFriday, I decided to institute microtrimming starting today.  I actually washed my hair at 6:00 am so I can trim during my roller set.  After my first micro-trim session, I'm already loving how much better my hair feels.  Can't wait until next month until I do it again.

In my case, I think I'll take the aggressive route and start with monthly trims.  Yes. Every month, I'll take off 1/4 of an inch.  I'll do this for at least 6 months then assess my progress. Essentially, my length could remain about the same while my ends appear fuller.  Notice I said,"could" remain the same.  In the back of my mind, I'm devising a plan to achieve both length and thickness!

We'll discuss this more in part II of this post. But for now, I invite you to reflect on your journey to see if this method could be beneficial to you.  Is anyone already doing this now?  Please share your experience.

Currently Craving | The Perfect Perm Rod Set

Guess what I'll be doing before the week is over?  I will be purchasing my very first set of perm rods.  For as long as I can remember, I've been doing the typical roller set using magnetic rollers. Meanwhile I was missing out on the amazing potential of perm rods.

I've always had this view that perm rods would create tight shrunken curls. Probably because I'd only seen people use the smallest size.  Now I know better. My eyes have been opened and I'm ready to run head first into a magical land filled with perm rods of various sizes and colors.

I'd like to take a moment to thank the poster on my Facebook page who made the comment about using perm rods after I posted the pic below.  I am forever grateful.  

Yay for perm rods!

Five Actions I will take to regrow my nape

I've been allowing an issue to go on too long and now it's time to get serious.  For the past year or so, my nape area has been struggling bad.  I'm putting it nicely when I say struggling. Actually, my nape area is severely challenged.  I've allowed too much time to pass without taking any action to reverse the issue.  Today, I've decided to draw the line and begin a plan of action to reverse the situation for good.


Before I can do anything about it, I must first understand what I did (or didn't do) to cause the damage.  In my case, I am very clear about what happened.  Out of stress or boredom, I tend to play with my nape. Another reason why I do it is because my nape is the only access to my hair I have when it's in a protective style.  I'm confident that my own hands are to blame because only my left side is impacted (I'm a lefty).  The right hand side is doing just fine.   Since I'm pretty confident about the cause, I can confidently begin working on my strategy.

Here are the rules of the game until I can get my nape back in check.

Rule #1.  Show my nape some love

Before, whenever I moisturized and sealed, I would mainly focus on my ends and various other sections.  My nape was rarely on the top of mind.  That is why it was so susceptible to damage whenever I manipulated it during the day.  I've since learned better and began a practice of beginning my conditioner application with my nape.  Whenever I moisturize, I make sure to mist my nape using Evian Facial spray before applying moisturizer and sealing.  From now own, my nape area gets special treatment.

Rule #2. Protection

When I was much younger I had a pretty bad issue with my entire nape area.  It had become thin and most of the length broke off.  My mom stepped in a recommended that I braid that section and apply a stinky oil (Haitian castor oil) to it a few times a week.  She claimed the oil would grow my hair back.  Truthfully, it probably had more to do with the fact that my fragile nape was now protected from manipulation which would allow it to return to health.  Unfortunately, my hair has broken off to the point where it's too short to braid (think twa) so I've got to come up with a different plan.  My hand still instinctively goes straight for that area when I'm bored so instead of fondling my nape, I'll massage that area instead. Hopefully that works.

Rule #3. Heavy Sealing

Mom applied heavy oil to my damaged nape until the point of saturation.  Maybe she was on to something.  I realize now that I've got to step my game up. I'll save the light oils for the rest of my length and seal my nape heavily.  From now on, I'll opt for oils like vitamin E, castor or perhaps even shea butter when sealing in moisture in the nape area.

Rule #4.  No more relaxing

In the past, I would wait until the end to apply relaxer to my nape.  In most cases, this is the right thing to do.  But, unfortunately, my nape is too far gone.  In order to pamper my nape to the utmost, I must forgo applying any chemical relaxer to that area until I am certain it is strong enough to endure.
But for now,  I've got to take extra precautions to ensure my nape has a fighting chance so no more relaxers there until further notice.

Rule #5. Patience

One thing I have to remember during this process is that time and patience is an asset.  By patience, I mean being diligent with Rule(s) 1-4.  Doing it over and over again, knowing that my efforts will be multiplied with the addition time.  Patience is not just allowing time to pass.  Patience is about being purposeful with my time.  I'll do the right things day after day and, before I know it, my nape will be back to normal again.

Why I love Tiger Protein Reconstructor so darn much

In my Banish Breakage post, I mentioned a little known product by the name of Tiger Protein Reconstuctor.  The moment I saw the price tag, I knew I had to have it.  To me the high end price probably was related the quality of product.  Although I own dozens of hair products. The only thing missing was a super protein leave-in spray.  I had no other choice but to get it.

When my package arrived, I immediately wanted to try it.  But not before I turned the bottle to check out the details.

Product Claims:  Covalent/Permanent Bonding of Protein into hair  + Rebuilds All Hair Types + Strength + Volume + Shine + Color Lock

Directions:  For Maintenance and Repair Treatment apply & massage into clean, damp hair dry & style as usual.

For Maximum Treatment: Apply & Massage into clean, damp hair. Cover with plastic cap & heat for 5 minutes. Remove plastic cap and style as usual.

I just love the fact that a spray leave in can be used as an intensive treatment by applying heat.  The ingredient list itself contains various types of proteins including soluable keratin, hydrolized wheat protein, hydrolized keratin, wheat amino acids, betaine (we mentioned the amazing benefits this ingredient in a previous post) and much, much more.

My first experience was on dry hair.  I misted a little on "dirty" hair to see if I would experience stiff, brittle strands.  Instead of brittle strands, I experienced stronger hair but without the feeling of protein overload.  Mind you, I did layer on some moisture on top of where I misted just to make sure nothing crazy happened.  But overall, I was very pleased.

The second experience was on wash day.   I washed and conditioned as usual then, during the rollerset I sprayed the length of my hair with the leave in.  Again, I experienced none of the "heavy protein"  feeling that I fear so much.  I'm guessing the size of the proteins are small enough to penetrate the strand instead of staying mainly on top of the hair.  Hence, my hair still remained it's old self, only stronger.

I felt pretty good about using Tiger Reconstructor as a final step during the roller set but this week, I had an ever better idea.  Remember my post on using different conditioners during the pre-poo based on how strong or weak the section is?  Well, this strengthening spray is perfect for such a scenario. Currently, I have healthy sections and I have weak sections.  Weak sections are those that, when manipulated, suffer casualties (broken strands).  Strong areas I can detangle without a care in the world.

During my pre-poo, whenever I came across a weak area, I sprayed a little bit of the reconstructor into my hand and distributed throughout the section.  The reason I misted into my hand was so I can be intentional about where the product goes. I also use less product this way.  After applying the reconstructor, I layered some moisturizing Kanechom and moved on to the next section.  Once done, I steamed then jumped into the shower to rinse.  My breakage in the weak areas reduced dramatically!  I'm beyond pleased with the results.  I love Babyface Pure Protein for an all over strengthening treatment but this gives me a laser-like focus to target my weakest areas.  I also remembered how Yahya mentioned targeting her ends with protein because to aid with retention.  I tried that over the weekend and today, my ends feel stronger as a result.

This type of product was exactly what was missing from my regimen.  Someone, like me, who over manipulates their hair needs a product that can help neutralize my potentially damaging actions.   How on earth did I go so long without it?

How I was able to find Kanechom Conditioners at 50% off.

After a week away from home, the first thing I wanted to do was a little grocery shopping to stock up on the things I needed.   Once I completed my  shopping at the neighborhood supermarket, I decide to check out this tiny little Brazilian grocer to see what's the haps.

taken from my instagram

I pretty much knew that I'd be coming out of there with ample amounts of Acai but I was not ready for what was to come.  Immediately after walking it, I made a beeline to the back of the small store towards the refrigerated items.  After moving aside boxes of oranges, mangoes and other random fruit, I was finally able to get to reach in and grab a couple packets of frozen Acai.  Before walking away my eyes landed upon a 5lb tub of the tropical superfruit.  Although I was tempted to buy a lifetime supply, I came to my senses after remembering that my freezer space wouldn't allow for it.

Acai Smoothie

On my way out I thought it would make sense for me to stop by their small beauty product section so I could take a look at their hair products.  Immediately, my eyes landed on the jars of Silicon Mix Pearl Protein which is one my faves.  Before I got a chance to compare prices with what I normally pay, I saw something that I could hardly believe.  There, right before my eyes, was an extensive collection of Kanechom conditioners. Yes, the same Kanechom that I've been in love with ever since our very first encounter.  

Not only did I have full access to multiple varieties of Kanechom conditioners but I was also blown away by the retail price.  Only $4.99 for the full size container.  A few moments went by as I stood there in shock.  Is this for real?  Suddenly, I snapped out of it and began to grab what I could.  My strategy was to go for the varieties that I've always wanted to try but hadn't had a chance.

First was the Kanechom Liso Intenso which claims to have a straightening effect on hair.  If that promise holds true, I can get a lot of use from it when I'm deep into my stretch.  Next was the Kanechom Shea Butter (my all time fave).  The packaging looked completely different from the one I currently love. The scent varied a little as well. I suspect this is the actual formula they sell in Brazil because nothing on the package was written in English. I'm curious to see if it performs any differently on my hair.  Lastly, I picked up Kanechom's Flora Brasileria. Although I couldn't translate anything from the package, I took a leap of faith and decided to get it anyway.  Heck, at these prices, I could afford to take a little risk.

I'm not finished yet, I think I'll go back for Kanechom Crystal Bath which claims to be able to "penetrate the hair fiber, protecting the hair from frequent external aggressions."  I'm extremely excited to have stumbled upon such a gold mine.  Kanechom is everything and now I have a lifetime supply available at rock bottom prices. Check out your local Brazilian markets to see if you too can find your little Kanechom Conditioner oasis.

I think I'll do a Kanechom Kraziness Part II post once I have had chance to try them all.

Hair Journey Feature | How she achieved waist length in less than two years.

Every so often I will be delighted by an email from a reader who shares the progress of their journey with me.  Not so long ago, Rachie did just that.  Her email proclaiming the achievement of waist length hair made my freakin' day!  I had no choice to but invite her to come to the stage to share the lessons from her journey with the rest of us.  

Ladies, meet Rachie.

Tell us about your hair (relaxed, texlaxed, natural, hair type)?

Texlaxed 4abc hair :-)

Congrats on reaching waistlength! How does it feel?

Pretty cool actually, I sometimes don't fully believe it because for sooo long I never thought it was actually possible for me :-)

How long have you been on your hair journey? What was your starting length?

I started my hair care research about October 2012, and then after I gathered enough information to make a “Hair-Plan” for myself, I officially started my hair care journey in January 2013.

Early on in her Journey

How do you care for your hair daily?

• I try my best to keep my hands out of my hair as much as possible during the week. Most times of late I've had my hair in braids/plaits on a weekly basis. I redo the braids or plaits once a week.
• I Moisturize and seal my hair daily with mainly Profectiv Mega Growth Daily leave-in Strengthener and a Grapeseed Oil + Castor Oil Mix. Of late, I've been using Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus KIDS Extra-Moisturizing Detangler as a spray-on moisturizer for my braids which is quick and easy to apply in the mornings before work, and I seal with a tiny bit of Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl & Style Milk.
• I do the GHE/Baggying method on alternate nights
• I always tie my hair with a scarf (satin) at nights. I'm looking into getting silk pillow cases so I don't always have to wear a scarf, I'll see.

What is your weekly regimen?

• I wash with shampoo once a month (Design Essentials Moisture Retention Shampoo), and Co wash once-twice weekly with any Moisturizing Conditioner I have in my stash: Mane and Tail Deep Moisturizing Conditioner is what I'm using at the moment (A big bottle was on sale, LOL).
• I wash with my braids in tact to reduce tangling and breakage.
• I air dry my hair with braids intact also. If my hair is loose (ie not in braids – usually the first 3-4weeks post Texlax) I'll air dry using the Scarf-method.
• I Deep Condition once to twice a week depending on how my hair feels, Mainly with Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Conditioner.
• I tend to Oil Rinse also: When I'm about to rinse out my deep conditioner I'll apply a handful of coconut oil to the length of my hair over the conditioner, then rinse it out with warm water. I found that adding coconut oil prior to the rinse helve A LOT with detangling. It also leave my hair feeling very soft after the rinse out while keeping some of the moisture locked into my strands.
• I do ACV rinses after each wash.
• I use a Denman brush to detangle my hair, finger detangling hasn't worked of late since my hair has gotten Longer.
• Once every week or 2, I'll apply an essential oil + grapeseed oil mix to my scalp, very tingly and smells lovely :-)

How often do you trim?

I trim whenever my hair needs it, I may trim soon actually, but in general I trim once every 6-7months.

Do you do anything to care for your hair from the inside?

I was VERY big on juicing (carrots, beets, bananas, strawberries, aloe vera juice) especially in the beginning. I fell off the bandwagon of late with work being so busy/stressful. But my hair skin and body on a whole loved it! So I'm definitley trying to get back in the juicing game! I try to exercise for an hour every other day at least, I drink at least 1.5 liters of water per day and I take Vitamin Worlds Hair skin and Nails Vitamins daily (again of late I haven't been the most consistent). I also used to take fish oil, horsetail capsules, zinc, vitamin C and cod liver oil tablets. I have not been the most consistent with these of late either. But as I said my hair loves them.

Did you have any setbacks along the way? How did you deal with them?

YESS!!! I did a Cassia treatment in late November/ early December last year which I may have done wrong; It left my hair in LARGE DRY CLUMPS, I cried and cried and cried. Lol. I lost half a dust bin of hair, my fiance' had to help me cut out large clumps of hair. It was devastating. In fact that was when I started to put my hair in plaits/braids to reduce manipulation and keep what hair was left on my head ON MY HEAD, lol.

And that was when I started co-washing very often too, to put moisture back in my hair. It felt dry for months. The braids and co-washing really saved what was left of my hair.

If you had to start your journey all over again, what would you do differently?

Nope! I've made mistakes, I've learned from them and I've enjoyed doing so. It's a journey, it can feel like a race in the beginning but after you start to see your hair health improve and you get confidence in what you are doing, that in itself was a major reward for me.

If you're stuck on desert island and can only bring 3 hair related items or products, what would you take?

Hmmm... tough one. I think I'd take my satin scarf, HEHH Conditioner, and Grapeseed oil. Awww man, can I take my Denman brush and my Profectiv daily strengthener leave-in conditioner too? Pretty pleez? Lol.

You meet a stranger on the street who begs you to share with her the tips & tricks so she can too have waistlength hair, what tips do you share with her?

I'd strongly emphasize BEING VERY GENTLE and Reducing Manipulation as much as possible to avoid breakage; a satin or silk scarf at nights to avoid breakage, and keep the hair well moisturized again to avoid breakage! :-) Length retention is key! Everyone's hair grows, its just to figure out how to keep it on your head. My hair strands being very fine are prone to tangling and breakage, so low manipulation is a must!

Moisturizing and sealing is a must too, to reduce split ends and thus reduce the number of trims that you have to do. :-)

Nadege, thank you soooooooo much for featuring me! You have been such an INSPIRATION! Seriously, your blog helped me immensely, especially in the beginning when I was just starting out and wasn't fully sure what a hair-care regimen was exactly. I feel like I've come full circle, to think I'd be featured on the very same blog that helped to inspire me to start my hair journey in the first place! Thanks so much again,

Xoxo,

Rachie :-)

After studying Rachie's regimen, I was reminded of the power of low manipulation.  I love how she was able to turn a devastating set back into a method that enabled her to achieve her length goals.  I also like her idea of applying coconut oil over conditioned hair for additional deep conditioning benefits.  Will definitely have to try this. 

You want more of Rachie's hair journey and regimen details? Be sure to check out her blog as she makes her way to hip length. 

 www.rachietowaistlength.blogspot.com

Wash Day | Want healthier hair? Try doing a "Pre" Pre-poo.

This wash day I decided to spice it up a little.  Normally,  I start by pre-pooing on dry hair.  If my hair has been excessively dry, I'll pre-poo with a moisture heavy conditioner like Kanechom Shea Butter if I want a little more strength, I might go for coconut oil.  This week I opted for the coconut oil but instead of jumping right into the process, I decided to take one more step.

Inspired by the post I did on the importance of penetration in our hair journey, and having thought back to my hair analysis results which revealed that my hair was suffering from product buildup, I opted to reach for my trusty clarifying shampoo.  I've yet to do a formal review on Neutrogena's Anti-Residue Shampoo but I love this little bottle so much.  It has fantastic cleaning power without over stripping the hair.  Only wish it came in a larger bottle.  

Anyhow, I began by creating 5 large sections and creating a series of loose buns with each section.  I stepped into the shower and proceeded to take down each bun and wash the sections individually with the Anti-Residue Shampoo.  Once that was done, I stepped out of the shower and allowed my hair to dry to around 70%.  (*Side note- Next time I follow this process, I'll be using a moisturizing shampoo after the clarifying to see if it's beneficial to adding moisture back in).  

Once my hair was mostly dry, I began the official "pre-poo" by applying coconut oil the hair like I would normally.  Allowing the coconut oil to sit on the hair for an hour or so allowed for better penetration.  If I'm ever short on time, I may hop under the hooded dryer for 15-20 mins.  I jumped in the shower and applied WEN Honey Fig and cleansed (adding the moisture back in my hair).  After allowing the hair to dry again to around 70%, I added a blend of Kanechom Shea Butter mixed with Silicon Mix Pear Protein, Kanechom Intense Care and a capful of Baby Face Pure Protein. 

It felt like I was rinsing melted butter out of my hair. That's how creamy and soft everything was.  While standing in the shower, I thought about how glad I was that I clarified first so my hair could receive the full benefit of this wonderful blend of conditioners and protein.   I lost much less hair than usual during my roller set and I could tell immediately that my hair was stronger as a result of fully absorbing the protein.  The end result of the process was perfect.  

I'm for sure doing this pre-pre-poo step in the future. My only qualm is how many times I had to jump in the shower.  I think I'm going to experiment with using a clarifying conditioner as my pre-poo. Suave & VO5 have some options that I can grab next time I'm at Walmart but I'll also keep my eyes open for higher quality clarifying conditioners to add to my product lineup.   

Have a great weekend!

Working out? What are you gonna do about your hair?

I received a fantastic question from a reader, that I felt deserved it's own blog post.  She's creating a healthy, fit body by working out regularly and was wondering how to wear her hair in a way that's appropriate for work and also works to support her hair journey.

There are a few concerns when it comes to working out and our hair.

1|  Maintaining decent looking edges after the workout is complete.
2|  Keeping the length of the hair from excessive contact with sweat.
3|  Being presentable when working out and after.
4|  Keeping the scalp clean and healthy

We should all know by now, that any loose hairstyles are an absolute no-no.  There's too much working against you.  Humidity levels seek to create frizzy, poofy hair. If any loose ends touch your sweat, you can almost bet on dryness and eventual breakage to those areas.  So we are all in agreement that restricting the hair is the best way to go.  But what are the best ways to do so?

@getfitwithnic

Whenever I workout publicly, it typically happens early morning.  If I'm exercising outdoors, I will make sure that a satin scarf is involved.  Aesthetically, it isn't ideal but, I'd rather look a little homely for an hour or so in front of strangers than to come back with hair ravaged by the morning humidity.  Wearing a satin scarf keeps my edges in check and protects the rest of my hair from swelling up from humidity.  One thing I can do differently is to play around with styling my scarf in a way that actually looks decent.

My gym is filled with lots of young, fit, attractive people. So sometimes I don't want to wear my scarf and be the oddball.  On those days, I rely on the trusty top knot.  It's cute, flattering and keeps my hair looking great.  If I'm feeling extra fancy, I'll put on those thin headbands (as seen below) to accessorize the look.

I once wore the top knot for like a week straight without taking it down.  Afterwards, I was filled with great regret.  My hair wasn't being moisturized properly.  Tangles formed and the effects of working out without putting in any effort to restore the hair, caught up to me. Don't end up like me.  Restore the hair as frequently as possible.

Restoration.  I think this is key to maintaining healthy hair while working out regularly.  I focused too much on a "no fuss" style instead of thinking about how to keep my hair at it's healthiest while working out.  It's important to bring moisture into the hair once the workout is complete.  This will help to keep the hair flexible reducing breakage from having the hair restricted.  It also matters that we follow all of the rules of healthy bunning.

 Buns are cool, but if you're so inclined, try out some of the neato braid styles that can protect the hair while working out and provide the basis for a super cute braidout when you head to work.  Just make sure to moisturize and seal that braid to the fullest so, when you take it down, your braidout looks amazing.  Sealing is really important. Again, the goal is to create a barrier between humidity and your hair and sealing will do just that.  I also like coconut oil for braidouts because it add a slight shine which makes the style look fresh and healthy. Coconut oil make sink into the hair so add another  (light) oil to seal the  outer layer.

Drink up!  Drink  up! Drink up!
You will get a few benefits by drinking lots of water before, during and after workouts.  First, the more water you drink while you are working out, the easier it is to maintain your body temp and manage sweating.  Sweat is the real enemy here.  I want illustrate the importance of drinking a lot of water by using urine as an example.  The less water you drink, the darker the urine and stronger the scent.  If you, on the other hand, are drinking 1-3 liters a day (or more), your urine is likely clear in color and orderless.  Your sweat, if you don't drink a lot of water will be more concentrated.  Concentrated sweat messes up your flow.  Your scalp will feel dirty, your hair will feel drier.

Managing your workout is another option.  For example, you can do low impact, strength building exercises on your work days and go all out with the cardio on (or closer to) wash days.  If you have enough time between the workout and heading to work, you can play around with quick ways to style your hair using Caruso rollers.

1| They serve to add moisture back in the hair
2| You can use it daily without damage.
3| You can wear your hair in cute, curly styles for work.

Play around with ways to cleanse the scalp between washes.  Perhaps you can mist a little coconut vinegar on the scalp to help keep the pH balance in check (coconut vinegar has a milder scent than apple cider and won't offend your co-workers).  I haven't tried dry shampoos but if you sweat a lot, that could be another option.  Lastly, if you want to go all out in your workouts, you can try working out after work, then you have all evening  (and overnight) to pamper your hair and prepare it for work the next day.


Hope that helps!

Got questions? Send me a note.

How to retain length if you're a obssessive hair manipulator (like me).

Retaining length is pretty much the essence of a successful hair journey.  Sure, we focus a lot on growth, but I think this is a by product of trying to compensate for all the progress lost from breakage.  If we retain our length, no matter how slow our growth, we move towards our goal.  This works out beautifully if you are a master at stretching relaxers and protective styling like a boss, but what if you're like me and also have some harmful habits that actually work against you?

I'm a compulsive hair handler. Worse yet, I man-handle my hair as a way of dealing with stress. It's somewhat subconscious, but when I'm overwhelmed with work, I rake my fingers through my hair incessantly.  It's a problem.  Sometimes, when I awake from my trance, I look down and see a ton of hairs on the floor in the wake of my destruction.  I'm also not as gentle as I could be while roller setting.  Again, lots of things can go wrong in this scenario.  Lastly, when I wore daily buns to work, I would allow days to go by without moisturizing.  I thought, "as long as I left my hair alone, I'd be fine."  Boy was I wrong.

Even with all these horrible habits (and multiple setbacks), I've still manged to retain length. I think it's good for me to talk about it out loud so I can be reminded of what works and continue to do more of it.  I think a big contributor to my length retention was when I invited Pure Protein into my hair journey.  Yes the product is great but even beyond that, I know had a way of adding strength, little by little, on a weekly basis.  I was no longer afraid of the protein because it blended beautifully with my moisturizing conditioners. As we know, consistency will give you all the results you desire.  For the first time ever, I was consistent with my protein.  Which meant that I was less likely to experience setbacks related to gradual breakage.

I still manipulate more than I should but now, the number of broken hairs at the end of my rampage is far fewer than before.  What has helped me more than anything is the addition of  the Evain Facial spray into my moisturizing routine.   You should see me when I use it, I lift sections of hair up and mist deep down in the parts that never previously would receive any daily moisturizing love.  My hair is transforming right before my very eyes.  I mist, rub in a watery moisturizer, and finish off with Gleau.  The difference in the elasticity of my hair is undeniable.

My hair products have now become a collection of soldiers, hand selected to seek out weakness and address it. Because I'm my own enemy, I work diligently to put safeguards in place to protect me from my own destruction.  That's why I'm always on the lookout for breakthrough ingredients like natural keratin, 18-MEA, ceramides, Ions that can repair split ends.  There's a method to my madness.  I'm trying to cure my own disease.  These products  have helped me tremendously.  Again, my previous setbacks were catastrophic, but now, I may lose a little here and there but overall, I'm still in the game.

Hair tools can rob you of all your progress and do it without a care in world.  That is why I invest in the highest quality possible.  I don't even use flat irons that much, but when I do, I need it to be awesome.  I need it to love my hair as much as I do.  Lastly, I eat healthy and drink things like bamboo tea &  green smoothies not necessarily for hair growth, but because I believe that having naturally stronger (nourished) hair will give me a slight edge.  So when I'm over manipulating, the hair is tougher and better able to withstand the extra stress I constantly put on it.

It's all about safeguards in place to make sure that whatever it takes, we will reach our hair goals. Nothing is an obstacle, not even ourselves.

Banish Breakage | Products that destroy hair breakage.

During our "Avoiding Setbacks" series, we didn't have a direct conversation about addressing consistent breakage.  Breakage, as we all know, is the arch enemy of the Hair Journey.  Basically, all of your hard work can be robbed from you if breakage isn't properly managed.

For the most part, there are two main sources of breakage.
1| Hair that is damaged will break
2| Excessive manipulation causes breakage

In essence, if you can strengthen your hair and manage breakage related to manipulation (also known as mechanical damage), then you have a fighting change.  By the way, if you can deal with the #1 cause of damage (weakness in the hair) then you are indirectly impacting breakage cause #2.  Why? Because stronger, more resilient hair, will be better able to withstand the stress of manipulation.  We've all probably experienced dealing with hair so weak that combing meant broken hairs all over the place.  That's truly a scary place to be.

That's why I'm here to offer a little help if your intention is to build additional strength in your hair.  From my experience, you can tackle weak hair little by little in various steps in your regimen.  For example, if I've noticed more broken hairs than usual, I'll probably kick off wash day with a coconut oil pre-poo.  My goal is to allow enough time for the coconut oil to sink into the strands, bringing with it the delicious natural protein and fatty acids.

During the wash, I decide on which protein rich conditioner to use depending on the level of damage.  Sometimes, I just feel like my hair needs a little boost.  In that case, I like to utilize unique proteins that mimic the natural strength in the hair like special keratin found in Paul Mitchell's Awapuhi.  Redken's Extreme Strength builder contains 18-MEA + Ceramides. I've discussed both of these ingredients at length in the past and how much they mean to our hair.  I respect Redken's hair mask because it contains ingredients that rebuild the integrity of the hair without creating that feeling of a heavy protein treatment. Speaking of ceramides.  My all time fave is Biolage CeraRepair.  Instead of using as directed, I apply to my hair after the deep condition prior to roller set.  Works like a dream as a leave in conditioner.

But, in all honesty, my favorite of all protein building products has got to be BabyFace's pure protein.  The level of gratitude I have for those who created this product can not be expressed.  I adore how this liquid turns all of my moisturizing conditioners into powerhouses.  No need to go out and buy a bunch of conditioners that leave my hair with a stiff feeling.  Baby Face Pure protein is every thing.  No one should be without it.

The other day, I stumbled upon a product on Amazon  that immediately peaked my interest for two reasons.  Reason #1 | Great Reviews.
Reason #2 | The price.

Typically, when a hair product falls under a higher price range, it likely to perform better than it's lower priced counterparts. That's not always the case, but in my experience, there's a correlation between performance and price.  A $36.00  leave-in conditioner reconstructor spray is a bit steep.  But everyone kept using words like "amazing!" "I love it!" "Best product ever!"  I have no choice but to try Tiger Protein Reconstructor spray for myself.  Nothing would make me happier than a high quality strengthening product that can protect my hair during  high manipulation that occurs via roller setting process.

When your hair is strong and resilient, all is right with the world.  I'm always looking for suggestions. What's your favorite anti-breakage product?