Why I'm going back to Dry Deep Conditioning

As a follow up to my 7 day moisturizing & sealing challenge, I want to let you into the part of the story I didn't share in that post.  I sang the praises of how daily moisturizing preserved my hair  during the pre-poo manipulation process.  I was so happy with the results, I thought nothing could go wrong.  After pre-pooing, I jumped into the shower to wash and prepare for the deep conditioning. Once complete, I stepped out of the shower, allowed my hair to partially dry and began to apply the conditioner section by section. 

Here's where things seemed to go wrong.  With every application of product, I would look at my hand and find broken pieces of hair. Some short, some longer.  How in the heck did that happen?  Just minutes prior I was patting myself in the back  for a wonderful experiment which seemed to create the most amazing outcome.  Now, suddenly, I was brought back full circle. 

The first thing I did was analyze why this was happening.  Why was my hair responding poorly to a simple thing like applying product.  The only answer the came to me was the possibility that my, already moisturized hair became over saturated with moisture after the wash.  All the conditioning/protective product was washed out when I shampooed, leaving swollen strands of hair.  Then, as I applied thick conditioners, my fragile damp hair succumbed to the pressure.  I'm not sure if my theory holds true but I'm willing to practice rule #2 in setback avoidance and act fast!  After I rinsed the conditioner from my hair, that breakage I was experiencing seemed to go away. It was like the product protected my hair during the wet manipulation.

The very next wash day, I'm going to conduct a dry pre-poo/deep condition.  Meaning I will apply product to my dry hair, then steam and use my conditioning iron.  Then, I'll step into the shower, rinse, and use cleansing conditioner.  For my scalp, I will apply some essential oil during the pre-poo step when I have the most access to my scalp.  If this works out, every 2nd or 3rd wash I will clarify to keep product build up at bay.  Actually, dry deep conditioning was something I did previously but somehow, I gravitated towards the more traditional approach.  But after last week's experience, I think I'm ready to go back to the non-traditional route.  Keep you updated!

Silk Amino Acids: Your hair, skin & lashes will love it!

There I was standing in my hallway thinking of products I can use during my Conditioning Iron treatment when all of the sudden it hit me like a ton of bricks.  Sitting in a back room of my house, tucked away in some boxes, was a small bottle of silk amino acids.  Instantly I rushed over to the back, my pace quickening as I got closer.  As I rummaged through the pile of boxes a small hint of panic rushed over me.  "What if I finished that bottle long ago?"  "What if it's not in the box and I can never find it?"  Suddenly, all of my fears calmed as I had finally found my treasure

The small bottle of silk amino acids was in my grasp.  Everything was right with the world.  I'm not sure how I got to the point where one of my most beloved conditioner boosters was packed away in a box.  How did I forget how amazing this product was?  None of that mattered now.  The only thing important was knowing that everything was restored and now I could move forward with my life. 

Silk amino acids (SAA), ladies are, for lack of a better term, everything you hair needs and more.  Basically, it's a protein derived from cocoons of the silk worm.  It has the wonderful ability to actually penetrated the hair follicle.  I repeat, SAA can penetrate the hair follicle, delivering a light protein directly into the hair.  Best of all, silk amino acid is notorious for it's ability to preserve the hair and skin from moisture loss.

Now that my beloved is back in my life, the two of us have been very busy getting reacquainted.  First I poured a capful of SAA into my Biolage Hydrating balm deep conditioner on wash day.  This was perfect timing as I just ran out of Pure Protein.  I utilized my Thairapy 365 conditioning iron to seal all of it in.  Next I rinsed then added another capful into my Daily Leave-in Tonic.  Again, I treated my hair to the Conditioning Iron.  Detangling my hair during the roller set was easier than my first attempt earlier.  The silk amino acids had already begun to do it's job.

Come relaxer day, silk amino acids will play a critical role in the entire process.  I can choose to use silk amino acids on my hair prior to the relaxer treatment as a way of protecting the strands.  I'll also add a little to the relaxer cream itself to further protect the integrity of my hair.

Right after my wash day treatment with amino acids, I headed over to my mascara tube containing castor oil and proceeded to add some SAA into the mix.  Doing so will add further potency to my DIY lash serum formula.  Next, I reached for my tube of "They're Real" mascara and added a couple of drops for good measure.  Daily use of my silk laced mascara will also help promote lash growth.  Now that it's cooler outside my skin requires much more moisture.    Silk Amino Acids help the skin retain moisture longer.  So when I apply my lotion in the morning, I include a few drops into the mix and use like I would normally.  There's a real difference in the longevity of my product when I mix with silk.

You can get silk amino acids online by visiting lotioncrafter.com.

{Best of the Best} Which Pre-Poo treatment is the ultimate?

I'm thinking about adding a decadent pre-poo treatment back into the wash day rotation. I've tried it all from oils, conditioners, butters and the like.  From time to time I like to have a special product handy for those moments when I want to enjoy a more intense pre-poo experience.

I'm currently debating between two products.  One I've tried (and loved) before, and a new one which I really want to try.  Let's break it down:

Philip Kinsley Elasticizer Extreme:

Elasticizer Extreme is targeted at a very specific hair type: extremely dry, porous and very thirsty! Specifically formulated for African-Caribbean or Caucasian hair that is exceptionally processed and damaged, this product provides instant replenishment, hydration and nourishment.Elasticizer Extreme has all the moisturizing ingredients of Elasticizer, with higher active doses of the components that can really make a difference to very dry, porous and thirsty hair.

OJON Restorative Treatment:

64% improvement in the condition of dry, damaged hair after just 1 treatment*.This clinically proven cult classic is fortified with nature's powerful golden elixir, a rare powerful natural ingredient that's rich in essential lipids similar to those found in healthy hair. After just one treatment, this rich, velvety balm dramatically helps restore vibrant health and high-gloss shine to even the most damaged hair. Hair is soft, silky and manageable. Formulated without Preservatives, Water, Artificial Color and Silicones

Both products are on the pricey end and make great claims on what they can do for the hair.  One has a consistency like that of a conditioner (Elasticizer) the other is like a rich, oil-based pomade.  Honestly I want both but I have to prioritize based on what my hair needs most.

I'm leaning towards OJON because I think it could add some much needed nourishment especially now that the weather is changing & the air is dryer.  I remember the days when I'd melt some OJON into my strands at the start of my wash day routine and would finish the day with well nourished hair.  I long for that experience again.

But, at the same time, I wonder what a product with a name like "Elasticizer Extreme" would feel like as a pre-poo.


Has anyone out there tried the Elasticizer?

{First Impressions} Thairapy 365 Conditioning Iron

Finally had the opportunity to take my new conditioning iron for a spin.  It looks like a flat iron, but behaves like a deep conditioning treatment.  At least, that's what it claims. There was no way that I'd pass up the opportunity to try such a novel idea, so I made my order on Amazon and waited patiently.  There were two options available to me.  The Jose Eber conditioning tool and the one made by Thairapy 365.  I chose the latter because of my experience with the Clarisonic and my Microdermabrasion machines. In both instances, I purchased the less expensive model, then upgraded and experienced the difference.  This time, I decided to get the "best that money can buy." 

The package itself only came with an iron and some safety instructions.  There was nothing in the box about how to use the conditioning iron.  So I went online and did some research.  The Thairapy website had some videos on the tool which I wasn't able to play.  Instead, I found some videos on how to use the Jose Eber iron.  I gather that it's meant to be used with a leave-in prior to styling.  But  I decided to try something a little different. 

I pre-pooed using Trader Joe's Nourish Spa. Then I jumped into the shower , rinsed, shampooed then stepped out to begin deep conditioning.  In a small bowl, I combined Kanechom Shea Butter and Silicon Mix Pearl Protein.  In went a half a capful of Pure Protein to complete the deep conditioning mix. After applying conditioner all over, I flipped the on switch and waited.  Then I was like "what am I waiting for, this thing doesn't have to heat up."  Just to confirm, I touched the plates which were glowing bright red.  As suspected, they were comfortable to touch. Not hot at all. 

So I took a section and started my first pass.  After the third section, I realized that I was using this thing like a flat iron. Meaning, I was passing it very quickly (as if to avoid heat damage) and I tried to avoid spending too much time on the ends.  I had to retrain myself to use this in a different way than I would my flat iron.  I took my time on each section and began to pay even more attention  on my ends.

When I close the iron, the lights change from bright red to a mix of red and blue. There's also a very slight 'frequency sound" as you use the iron.  Other than that, you feel like it's not doing anything.  It doesn't straighten like a flat iron although it does give a very slight straightening effect. Could be due to the pressure of the plates against the hair. 

After I completed "ironing" my hair with the deep conditioner in, I jumped back into the shower then prepared for the styling process.  I decided to pop open my last tube of Biolage Cera Repair so I can seal the ceramides into the cuticle.   Again, I used the tool in sections over my entire head.  This time, I started noticing a difference in my hair as it began to dry.  My hair seemed a little stiff.  Similar to when my hair starts behaving after a deep protein treatment.  Not sure how I felt about this. I told myself, "OK, at least I know my hair will be stronger after this, 'cause my hair absorbed the protein really well." 

I dampened my hair again in preparation for the roller set.  The amount of hair I lost during this process was so minuscule it was laughable.  A couple of months ago, I was concerned about my hair loss when I roller set.  I was going to write a post about it but thought it'd be better for me to test various solutions before sharing my thoughts.  So far, this experience has exceeded my expectations in that area.

While I was under the dryer, I thought to myself.  I think it's a good product but I'm not sure it should be called a "moisturizing tool" because my hair didn't feel extra moisturized.  Little did I know that I would be eating those words when I removed my rollers and over the next couple of days.  Indeed my hair does feel moisturized.  The stiff hair I had earlier was gone.  My hair does feel like it experienced an ultra deep conditioning treatment even though I used zero heat or steam. Based on the review on Amazon, and the information on the box, the results will continue improve over the next 30 days. 

Honestly, even if my hair doesn't continue to improve beyond this, I would still be happy.  But, since the best is yet to come, I will be a bit more intentional next time and use even smaller sections.   Overall my hair feels like my cuticles are smoother and the strands are softer.  To me, this is the epitome of deep conditioning.   I'm very happy.

The best conditioner in the world for under $5.00! Trader Joe's Ultra Nourish Spa

I've been basking in the amazing glow of having found deep conditioners that satisfy my every need.  Kanechom is giving me everything I've ever asked for in a conditioner.  To be honest with you, I thought it would be a very long while before I was buying another brand of conditioner again.

But I had to make an exception because this latest purchase has been on my mind and in my heart for several years.  For years I've heard of the wonders of this conditioner but have not been able to try it.  You see, I live in a part of the country where Trader Joe's doesn't exist.  I'm familiar with the grocery chain from my visits to California.  On many occassions I've heard rave reviews of a humble little conditioner offered by the brand.  Never have I been able to get my hands on it until this week.

Luckily for me, a Trader Joe's opened a couple of hours away.  I happened to be in that neck of the woods over the weekend so I had to make a stop.  Immediately I swooped up a bottle of the Ultra Nourish Spa & Tea Tree Tingle conditioners.  Briefly, I took a moment to read the ingredient label and was blown away by what I saw.  Lots of all natural goodness like rosemary oil, sea kelp, lavender, lemon grass and more.  The best part of it all was the teenie, tiny price tag.  Not sure why, but I decided to pick up only one bottle. Little did I know that I would be making the biggest mistake I've made in a while.

Fast forward two days later and there I was ready to put this conditioner up to the ultimate test.  Just several days prior, I was stricken with a bout of laziness and decided to air dry my  freshly hair in a bun.  I know for a fact that air drying my hair in a bun is the perfect recipe for massive dread like tangles.  Somehow, I managed to convince myself that this time would be different.  Yep, sure enough, a couple of days pass and my husband literally asks me if I know that my hair is dreading up in the back.  It was that serious.

So here is this cheapie store brand conditioner being asked to do the nearly impossible....salvage my hair from the mess I created.  I got started by trying to break apart the clumps of hair that were fused together. Then I applied ample Ultra Nourish Spa to each section.  I didn't condition with heat, I didn't add protein, oil, or any other booster. I didn't even leave it in that long. I just used the conditioner in its raw form as a co-wash. Can I just tell you how blown away I was by the performance of this product.  Slip like nobody's business and with the ability to moisturize like the best of them.  I'm in love.  Today my hair's moisture levels have been restored and there is zero sign of the dry tangled mess that I've been sporting for the better part of a week. Words can't describe my current state of happiness.

Needless to say, that I'll be flooding my basket with these conditioners on my next trip to Trader Joe's (in Supermarket Sweep fashion).  It'll work perfectly for when I'm doing my strand ceremonies.  This conditioner needs to be in the homes of everyone who has hair. Everyone!  If you've never tried this conditioner, please take heed and follow my advice. You'll be so glad to you did.

Kanechom Kraziness!!! Which one is my favorite?

I have been in hair heaven ever since I first learned about Kamechon and Silicon Mix.  My first couple of experiences were so delightful that I decided to dive in and expose myself to as many varieties as I could get my hands on.

So now I have a gang of 'em!  They're like my new little family.  Since my little collection is growing, I think it's a good time to assess my purchases to see which one(s) I like & will repurchase again. Although I've only used them once or twice, there are a couple which are becoming obvious favorites.  Here's a run down of my babies so far:

Kanechom Goat Milk  {Restores and Strengthens}

+ Main Benefits: Contains Hydrolyzed Milk & Wheat Protein  || Lightly Scented. || Thick Creamy, Moisturizing Feel.

 Will I Reorder?  Yes because of the strengthening/moisturizing qualities. Will help my hair maintain strength in between protein treatments.
......................................................

Kanechom Shea Butter { Moisturizes & Promotes Healthy Hair} 

+Main Benefits:  The most moisturizing of all the Kanechom products I own.  Contains Hydrolized Keratin as last ingredient.  Perfect for keeping moisture balance in my hair.  Will be the base for my protein treatments when ever I use Pure Protein in the future.  I'm in love with the texture of this product.  It reminds me of a better version of Suave Milk & Honey which was discontinued years ago.

Will I Reorder?  Yes! Yes! Yes!
.......................................................

Kanechom Intense Care { Mega Hydration}

+Main Benefits:  Contains Hydrolyzed Corn, Wheat, Soy protein.  ||  Thick and rich

Will I Reorder? Not sure.  For some reason I thought it would be even more hydrating than my Shea Butter.  It's more of a nourishing product.  I think this Intense Care is better suited for extremely damaged hair.  At the moment, my hair is "normal."  The fact that Intense Care is so thick & nourishing isn't a bad thing (it's a really good thing) , I just think I was expecting something different. Maybe instead of calling it Mega Hydration, they should call it Mega Repair.  It's still moisturizing like all of the others but, with a name like Mega Hydration, you better come correct.
...........................................................

Kanechom Acai {Moisturizing & Strength}

++ Main Benefits:  No obvious proteins listed in the ingredient list.  Contains several fruit extracts including Acai, which are hydrolyzed for better penetration into the strands.   Mild fruity scent.

Will I Reorder?  Yes.  Very moisturizing. Also a good base to mix with my Pure Protein. Will act as back up staple conditioner because the Shea Butter is often out of stock.
.........................................................

Kanechom Ceramidas { For dry/damaged hair}

++ Main Benefit:  Ceramides in the form of Hexyl Cinnemal, which the representative from Kanechom stated was a "pharmaceutical name for ceramide" after I contacted her.  I'm so used to ceramide in the form of 2-oleamido and 1-3 octadecanediol which I often see in my Biolage Ceramide products.  From what I know of Hexyl Cinnemal,  it naturally occurs in chamomile.  I did a quick search of it and couldn't find much information that defined it as a ceramide.  I'm not saying that it isn't.  What I am saying is that in a couple other products I found online containing this ingredient, they also included other ceramides in the formulation.  My very unscientific conclusion is that it probably isn't a highly concentrated ceramide.

Will I Reorder?  Probably not.  I think I will stick to Cera Repair as the main ceramide product in my regimen. 

One thing I should also mention is during my email interactions with a rep from Kanechom, she made a recommendation that I try the Dark Chocolate conditioner.  She asserted that the Dark Chocolate would be "very hydrating for textured hair."  So I hopped on over to Amazon to see what folks were saying.  The reviews were pretty positive so I'm adding to my wish list. 

Oh, I should also mention that the woman who helped answer my questions graciously offered up two coupon codes that expire September 30, 2013.  The first code FIVE will take $5.00 off your order.  The second code FREE will save you on shipping and handling costs.  You can take advantage of the code by visiting the Kanechom site.  I will not receive any compensation if you chose to take advantage of the offers.  All of the conditioners seen here were purchased by a crazy woman who is obsessed with conditioners (me).

Did the Silicon Mix & Kanechom blend live up to its hype?

Just another visit to Youtube to kill some time....or so I thought.  Little did I know that I was about to stumble upon a video that would radically impact my current regimen.  Something inside me prompted me to click when I saw a thumbnail image of a woman swinging her honey colored tresses.  Once I clicked, her level of excitement and passion around her salon results at home intrigued me to keep watching.

Finally, after she calms down, she reveals the products which gave her such joy  The products shared were a combination of Silicon Mix and Kanechom conditioners.  The story behind this blend originates from another Youtuber who was fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of her stylist mixing these two products behind the scenes.  Y'all remember those days when stylists at the Dominican salons would whip up concoctions without letting us see what was going into the blends.  We are so fortunate to have been granted knowledge of this wonderful combination.

I already owned a large tub of Silicon Mix so all I needed to do was get my hands on the Kanechom.  One trip to Amazon easily took care of that for me.  Days later, my package arrived.  My first impression? I love the size of these Kamechon conditioners.  Nowadays, I opt to only purchase large sizes so I can conduct a proper strand ceremony.  Not being familiar with the brand, I didn't know which version of the Kanechom to buy so I got two!

The Goat Milk and the Karite Butter were my first purchases.  When I took the lid off and eye balled the conditioners, I knew something great was about to happen.  They had that glossy, smooth look to them that I like.  I knew, from that moment, that I found new staples.  I freakin' love nourishing conditioners and these are super nourishing.  Not too thick (WEN 613), not too watery.  This conditioner is just right.  Of the two, the Karite Butter was the more moisturizing.

(My new boyfriend, Kanechom Keratin & Shea Butter)

The Goat's Milk is good if you are looking a moisturizing conditioner with strengthening properties.  I'm glad I got both. They seem to balance each other out.   I love these conditioners so much that I went back for more.  In my Amazon cart, I add the Kanechom Ceramide Conditioner, the Intense Care Mega Hydration Karite Butter (different package from the one I have), and the Crystal Bath.  I wanted to stop there but the rave reviews on their Acai conditioner wouldn't let me.  I'm so happy I found this line.  I wish they didn't make so many varieties cause I'm sure I'll be tempted to try them all.

(Original Silicon Mix & Proteina De Perla)

Although the original Silicon Mix is the one recommended to create this conditioner fusion.  I opted to add in my wonderful Proteina de Perla (Pearl Protein) as well.  It's always been my favorite of the Silicon Mix line.  I thought that if the original worked well, then the Proteina would take it to the next level for me since my hair likes it so much.  Boy was I right.  So far I've experimented with the Kanemchom/ Silicon Mix twice.  The second time I added the Pearl Protein and loved my results much more.  The amount of slip I experienced while rinsing was unlike I've ever experienced.  I literally had to hold on to my shower door handle to make sure I didn't slip in the tub.  My hair hasn't felt as good in a long time.  It seems more resilient and better more deeply moisturized. I normally don't blow out and flat iron, but if I did, I have no doubt that it would be swinging like the girl in the video. I can't keep my hands out of it. 

Honestly, I can't see how anyone would try this combination in not fall in love.  The only thing to look out for would be eventual build up from the use of silicone.  That's why I'm keeping my Neutrogena Anti Residue clarifying shampoo near by.   Prior my Kanechom order, I also picked up some Inphenom products but I have absolutely no desire to use them. This currently sit unopened in my product closet.  That's how good this Kanechom Mix is.  Wash day is this weekend and I'm praying that my second order arrives before then so I can test out the Intense Hydrating Keratin Conditioner and the Ceramide version. 

I'll leave you with my final thoughts.  This conditioner combination is phenomenal.  You get a lot of product for the price.  I promise that you will not be disappointed.  Trust me.

{ETA}
Ingredients:  Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Parfum, Dimethicone, Shea Butter, Hydrolized Keratin, Citric Acid

Air Drying vs. Blow Drying. Guess which is most damaging.

Lately I've been looking back at the troublesome period in my hair journey. I started to wonder about some of the mistakes I made along the way and seeing how I can learn from them.  One "mistake" in my case was trying to incorporate air drying into my regimen again. Let me clarify that I'm only calling air drying a mistake because it just doesn't sit well with my hair.  Ever since I started textlaxing, my hair began to prefer other methods of drying.

The fact that my hair no longer responded well to air drying really bummed me out.  It's supposed to be one of the healthiest ways of styling the hair after a wash. Isn't it?  That's what I thought until I read some interesting information
that may give me some insight as to why air drying wasn't working for me.

The study, published in 2011, looked at the changes in the hair structure and moisture content of the hair strand after air drying and blow drying at various temperatures.  Then the hair shaft was examined to determine if damage was sustained and what type of damage occurred (if any).

Using differing temperatures, they took freshly washed hair samples and proceeded dry it using a dryer.  With each sample they utilized a different temperatures and held the dryer at various lengths.

Here's a breakdown of what they did:
Sample 01. Received no treatment {controlled group}
Sample 02: Shampooed and air dried (68 degrees F)
Sample 03: Shampooed and blow dried for 60 seconds while holding the dryer 6 inches from hair at  116.6 degrees F (cool air)
Sample 04: Shampooed and blow dried for 30 seconds while holding the dryer 4 inches from hair at 142 degrees F
Sample 05: Shampooed an blow dried for 15 seconds while holding the dryer 2 inches from hair at 203 degrees F

What were the results?  After drying all the samples, they looked closely at the hair using various measuring devises to determine the impact of their actions on the hair.  Here's what they found out:

Hair Surface Damage : There was no hair surface damage on the samples that were air dried.  In the blow dried group, surface damage was evident. Cracks on the cuticle were observed in Sample 03 "but more obvious lifting and cracks were" seen in Sample 04 and the most damage was evident in the sample dried at the highest temperature and shortest distance.

Hair Cuticle & Cortex:  The study showed no changed to the cuticle & cortex of the hair that was air dried and Sample 02 dried using cool air.  But more severe damage to the cuticle was observed in Sample 05.The good news was that no damage to the cortex (the inner structure of the hair) could be seen in any of the samples.

Cell Membrane Complex (CMC): Here's where it get's interesting.  Only the air dried group exhibited damage to the CMC layer of the hair.  In all of the blow dried groups, "the CMC was well preserved with no signs of damage."  I'm sure you're wondering what this CMC layer is and why is it important.  Basically, it's the lipid layer that acts like a glue, holding the cuticle layer to the shaft. Sound familiar?  The folks leading the study seem to believe that air drying may impact our precious CMC layer because of the pro-longed exposure to "wet stage".  We know that water expands the size of the follicle, perhaps it's not a good thing to keep the hair in that expanded state for an extended period of time.

The Lesser of Two Evils?
Blow drying can damage the cuticle, air drying can damage the CMC layer. What's a girl to do?  The folks did suggest that using a blow dryer at 6 inches from hair at lower temperatures may cause less damage structurally than air drying.  Based on what I read, I began to play around with ideas on how to minimize damage to the air no matter which method I use.  If I air dried, I would use ceramide rich products to aid in the air drying process.  Perhaps I might even blow dry some of the moisture off (cool temperatures) to lessen the drying time.  If I blow dried, I'd always use the cool setting whenever possible. And if higher temperatures are required, I'd extend the distance of the dryer so it's not directly on the strand.

And of course there would be ample heat protectant usage throughout the entire process.  I'm a little snobby when it comes to heat protectants. I like the ones that also offer up healthy hair qualities and well as heat protecting power.  Kerastase Ciment Thermique is a water based creamy leave-in that protects the hair from heat while rebuilding and strengthening the hair fiber with the power of ceramides.

I also got my hands on two products from the Inphenom line that may be able to deal with both issues.  One is Cuticle Coat, to protect the cuticle layer damage that may occur from blow drying. The other is Cuticle CMC (Cement-CMC) for those air drying woes.  I bought these babies a while back after learning about Japanese straightening from this unicorn.  Inphenom is a Japanese hair product line that developed treatments that deal with damaged hair after color, straightening or other chemical services.  After reading about the results of this study, these Inphenom products have been reintroduced to my rotation.

I should also mention that, for the study, they used virgin hair and they repeated the wash and blow dry step once a day for 30 days.  Hopefully none of us are blow drying our hair daily.  But I still want you to be always diligent whenever you dry your hair.  No matter how you do it.

Check out the full study here. 

{MEGA Omega Power} My newest hair treatment revealed!

Now that I'm back in good graces with my hair.  I decided to go all out this past wash day.  I was inspired after learning about a product called Neal Yard's Beauty oil.   Their Beauty Oil is a blend of carrier oils that are rich in Omega 3 & Omega 6 Super Power! The original intent of this product was that it's taken internally which will ultimately create healthier skin and nails. 

Of course my mind started running rampant with ideas about how my hair would respond to topical application of an omega 3 oil fusion.  Could my hair benefit from using these oils as a pre-poo treatment and even a deep conditioner booster?  My immediate response was "sure, why not."  We add all kinds of to our hair topically to receive benefits. From eggs and mayo to avocados, apple cider vinegar, relaxers, and even nutrients.  Our hair definitely responds to what we put on it.  If we see changes in our hair from consistently taking omega rich oils internally, why wouldn't it  also respond well to omega 3 as an oil treatment?

Once I found a list of ingredients, it was on.  I immediately went about the business of amassing the necessary oils.

-Avocado oil? Check!
-Flax Seed oil? Check!
-Hemp Seed oil? Check!
-Evening Primrose oil? Check!
-Pumpkin Seed oil? Check!

What I love about this list is that most (if not all) of them are not part of my normal regimen.  In fact, many of those oils (with the exception of avocado + hemp) have never even touched my hair before.  I love the diversity of this concoction.   And, of course, I had to take it up a notch by adding a little vitamin E to to the mix.  I did no measuring whatsoever, I just poured a little of each into a bowl and stirred using my Sprush.  The mix was actually kinda thick. It saturated my hair weighing the strands down as I applied it.  If I had to use one word to describe my mix, it would be nourishing.  It felt so decadent like a high end salon treatment.

(due to the dark colors of the Flax, Pumpkin & Hemp oils, my blend turned out dark green)

After an acceptable amount of time passed, I jumped in the shower and washed the mix out of my hair (with ease).  Then I poured some of my leftover oil mix into my deep conditioner. Finally I added a half a cap full of Pure Protein and blended everything together.  After my final rinse I roller set my hair.  When the rollers came out, I was all smiles.  I'm four months post so, normally, I'd be battling with my hair right now.  Instead, it feels so moisturized and healthy. I dipped a couple of fingers into my mix and rubbed a little more on my ends for good measure.  In my mind I was thinking "this would be a great night time treatment."

The only thing I could do to make this blend even better would be to add the all mighty Omega 9 by way of macadamia nut oil.  Then my fusion would be complete with Omega 3, 6, and 9! Should I also mention that hemp seed oil also contains the wonderful ceramides that protect our precious cuticle layer.  If this wasn't amazing enough, I should also share that I picked up most of these oils in food grade quality so I can "double dip" by adding them to my smoothies for internal hair/skin  benefits as well (I'm a freakin' genius!). 

My Hair Journey: The New Beginning

I feel like I'm starting this hair journey thing all over again. I say this because for the bulk of the year, I have severely neglected my hair.  I skipped deep conditioning sessions, I didn't moisturize as I should.  Overall, I just couldn't be bothered with this hair journey thing.  But once I made the decision to have my hair analyzed, I also chose to recommit myself to the pursuit of healthy hair.

I feel like someone who has been absent in their marriage.  Things were falling apart around me while I just sat back and let it happen.  Before we got to the point of no return, I chose to stage an intervention in the form of the hair analysis.  If this were a marriage, I would liken this experience to renewing my vows.  

So I took the liberty to actually create a set of vows and promises to my hair as we embark on our new journey together.  

***clears throat***

"For years you have stood by me. As you grew, I grew.  We fulfilled each other's needs.  But things changed when I began to drift away from you.  My actions made hurt you.  Yet despite it all, you were still here, with me, waiting for the day when I would return to the person I once was.

Now I'm ready. I will now give you the time, attention, and love you so crave.  I will nourish you and keep you healthy. I'll shower you with attention.  We will thrive together." 

Based on the conversation with the Komaza consultant,  I will need to get back to the basics.  I'll start by doing consistent monthly protein treatments every few weeks using my Babyface Pure Protein.  This will help repair some of the cuticle lifting.  I also was told that my hair would benefit greatly from a strengthening leave in conditioner.  Which I can use on wash days and even periodically throughout the week.  Because it's a water based product, my hair will be getting a mix of moisture and protein all at once.  I purchased a leave-in on Komaza's site.  Along with that I picked up a bottle of It's a 10 with Keratin (which my straight hair loves!). Oh yeah, let's not forget Biolage Cera Repair which is a strengthening leave in that utilizes the power of ceramides.   I think I'll pick up a couple other brands to experiment with until I find the perfect leave-in strengthening moisturizer. 

What's critical about my commitment is that I remain consistent.  Being inconsistent is what got me here in the first place.  The sheer amount of time it takes for me to wash, deep condition and roller set my hair was the root cause.  If I have any weekend activities planned, I'm pretty much screwed.  But there are ways to work around it.  I was just too lazy to make everything work.  I had the mentality of "it's only one way or another."  Either I do my hair or I participate in weekend activities.  Now I'll find make a way to do both.

The good news is that my hair, according to the consultant, is thick and strong.  She really emphasized the word thick and even gave me the dimensional size of my strands.  I've got to use that to my advantage somehow.  One thing I will do, for sure, is not too long in between trims.  I'll try to trim at least twice a year if not more. After taking off a couple of inches, I'm back to just below bra-strap length which is a good place to start again.  I'm actually excited to get back on the saddle. I love forward to the journey ahead.

MUST SEE!! My Komaza Hair Analysis Results (PIC HEAVY)

This is one of the most exciting posts that I've written in a while.  A dream of mine finally came true.  For the longest, I've wanted to have my hair analyzed and now I can scratch it off my bucket list.  You may remember from part 1 of this series that I sent over some hair samples to the good folks at Komaza hair care.  Once they received the hair and analyzed it, I was contacted to discuss the results via phone consultation.

To be honest with you. I was deathly afraid of what would come back. Why?  Because for the past 4-6 months, I've been pretty negligent with my hair.  I haven't been giving it the attention it deserves and was experiencing, first hand, the result of my actions.  I was so nervous, in fact, that I trimmed (cut) around 2 inches so I can get a head start on getting everything back on track.

The person on the other line was super friendly.  She took her time to discuss my results and answer any questions.  There were lots of pics but I wanted to show you the most interesting ones.  So without further adieu, let's get started....

There were several slides of my hair roots included in the summary.  She stressed that they look closely at the root to see if there are any signs of thinning.  All of my shed hair had a full, healthy bulb. In her words, "healthy root means healthy growth."  I'm glad to hear that.

This was probably one of the coolest images. Check out this knot.  Years ago, I was plagued with single strand knots but lately, not so much.  In fact, if I hadn't seen this pic, I wouldn't even thought about single stand knots as a concern. But now that I'm confronted with this image, I will be on the lookout to determine if this is a random occurrence or something I should be worried about.

There were several pics depicting various types of breakage.  Some at the end of the strand, some in the middle.  Just looking at these pictures make me cringe.   The stress point damage (below), she said, could be caused by me wearing a bun in the same place day in and day out.  The mid shaft breakage could be contributed to over manipulation coupled with lack of protein.

Another thing she mentioned was that I seemed to have obvious product buidup.  She invited me to introduce a baby shampoo into my regimen. The recommendation of a baby shampoo is so my scalp does not get irratated due to my seborrheic dermatitis.

Even with the graphic images depicting violent breakage, the consultant told me that overall, I had healthy hair.  I was shocked.  These pics completely freaked me out.  Honestly, I thought I'd have to shave it all off and start all over again.  She told me that she had to search the samples to find examples of breakage for the sake of the discussion.  Believe it or not, she said that, overall, my hair had good elasticity and took several firm tugs before the strand broke. Although most of my distressed strands showed signs of cuticle lifting, she said that severity of the lift was relatively minor (considering that I was relaxed) and could be easily be addressed. 

Oh, she also acknowledged me several times during our conversation for the amount of water I drink daily (takes a long swig from water bottle).

We talked specifically about what actions I should take based on my hair's strengths and opportunity areas.  I took copious notes and will discuss my next steps in full detail in a follow up post.  Even though I'm a veteran at this hair game, there were still some new insights that I got from the consultation. Can't wait to share with you!!!!

What do you think of these pics, pretty crazy huh?

If anyone is thinking of of doing this in the future, you can use the referral code 8n2sA6 to receive a 5% discount off the cost.

Wash Day | Apple Cider Vinegar Conditioning Treatment

My regimen is currently under a major renovation.  Some of the things I'm doing are completely different than before while some are simple tweaks.  One of the shifts I made last wash day will likely be a part of my regimen for a while.  When I'm comfortable with the effectiveness of the updated regimen I'll share a full update.  Until then, let me show just a glimpse of one of the things I'm doing differently.

Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV).  I've talked extensively about ACV in previous posts.   My scalp and skin has been so grateful for the addition of ACV in my regimen.  Normally,  diluted ACV would be the final step after I've rinsed my conditioner.
But last weekend a random thought popped into my mind.  "What would happen if I mixed the ACV with my conditioner?"

Now that the weather is shifting, I'm thinking ahead about how to manage the increased humidity in the air.  My plan of action would be to focus on sealing the cuticle on wash days.   We know that a low pH product is a great tool for sealing the cuticle layer.  I usually mix my conditioners so I have no idea of the final pH of the product mixture I create.  That's when the idea of adding a little ACV to my conditioner blend came about.

The idea excited me so much that I got a little overzealous last week.  Instead of just adding to the conditioner mix, my routine went a little like this:

• Pre-poo
• Rinse and "shampoo" with WEN Honeyfig.
• Add diluted ACV solution (ACV+Water) to hair and leave in for a couple minutes before rinsing.
• Mix a small amount of AVC in my deep conditioner mix, apply and steam hair.
• Rinse and style.

If you notice, I used ACV twice. Once during the wash and mixed in with my deep conditioner.  I'm still deciding if this is a bit of overkill.  Honestly, I don't regret using ACV after the wash, it made detangling much easier and my hair looked great.  This weekend I'll be repeating the same steps but, unlike last weekend, I won't be doing a protein treatment.  I experienced a little bit of stiffness last week so I'm trying to figure out if it was protein related or because I used ACV twice in one session.  Even with the light stiffness, I still believe in the power of AVC conditioning.  One of the intentions I'm creating is having glossy hair and this method of cuticle sealing is one way to get me closer to my intention.     

If I continue to keep this as a part of my weekly routine, I'll be sure to update you when I reveal my complete regimen.

'till next time!

Sprush update: Which one should I get?

This post is sort of an update on the one I wrote in August of last year.  When I first made my purchase I picked out two of them on a whim.  At the time, I had no idea of the difference between the two. The only thing that led me was that gut feeling that told me that I was doing the right thing.

Looking back,  I'm so glad things turned out the way they did because both sprushes are wonderful in their own special way.  My first experience was when  I tried to apply conditioner with my green one.  Honestly, that first experience made me second guess my purchase because things weren't jelling.  While applying conditioner to the length of my hair, the green sprush had difficulty conforming to my hair. So the conditioner wasn't applied evenly at all (especially towards the ends).

Then I remembered that I had two of them and decided to experiment with the pink one.  That's when everything clicked. The curved edges conformed beautifully to the length of my hair hair.  Everything worked out like a dream.  Then relaxer time came and I broke out my green sprush which was amazing as an application tool.  Prior to the sprush, I touched up with a small rat tail comb. The only issue with that is sometimes my hair would get caught in my comb which would cause relaxer to get on the length of my hair.  Then I'd start to freak out uncontrollably as I envisioned that section of previously relaxed hair beginning to disintegrate.   

With the green sprush, this is no longer an issue.  I like how precise the point is because when I apply to the new growth, I can feel exactly where I'm applying. This really puts me at ease.  I know that some people out there who may have tried to get a sprush may have been a bit intimidated by all the selections available.  I think I felt the same way which is why I think I bought two in the first place.  Hopefully this quick update helps you when you make your decision.

A Review of Babyface Pure Protein

I'm so excited to formally introduce this product to you.  I found out about Babyface Pure Protein completely by accident.  This was one of Amazon's product recommendations that appeared as I was inquiring about another brand.  Immediately, my eyes were drawn to the positive reviews.

People were going on and one about how a protein treatment made their hair soft.  This idea completely blew my mind because every time I think of a heavy protein, the first thought that comes to my mind is hard, stiff strands.  How could this be?  I immediately placed the product in my wish list and let a few weeks past.  For some reason, I couldn't get Pure Protein out of my mind so I went for it and finally placed the order.

My level of caution around using protein is so strong that I let the small bottle sit on my counter for weeks before I mustered up the nerve to put it to use.  Finally I made the decision to take that first step.  Before I tell you about my experience, let me share a little more about this product from the pamphlet included in the package.

|"Babyface's Pure Protein is a very effective (and addictive) treatment for damaged hair , as well as a superb product to help protect hair from damage in the first place.  A favorite of high end stylists for close to 20 years now, it keeps hair healthy looking and feeling, and protects it from the damaging effects of heat and chemical treatments.  The specifically prepared formula penetrates to the hair's core, protecting it from the inside out.  Strong hair breaks less. Less breakage=Longer Hair!  Add a dose to any chemical treatment or use it as a damage treatment to strengthen week or damaged hair."

 The way to use Pure Protein is to mix a little bit (1/2 capful to 1 capful) with your favorite moisturizing conditioner.  According to the instructions, "waxy/high oil conditioners seem to produce the silkiest feeling and work best with the protein."  This was all I needed to hear because all of my favorite conditioners seem to fall under that category.  My product closet is filled with thick, nourishing conditioners that perfectly compliment this product.  This will save me money over time since I will no longer be on the lookout for a strengthening conditioner to pair with my moisturizing faves.

When it comes to strengthening conditioners, I have a few that I turn to when needed.

01. Aveda Damage Remedy is probably the "weakest" of the group.  By weakest I mean that I'm able to use on a weekly basis without fear of protein overload. Actually, because of this post I carefully reviewed the ingredient list and realized that there were no obvious proteins mentioned.  So even though the label say "damage remedy" I'm not sure how much repair this product actually offers.  Either way, it's still a quality product which I would repurchase in the future.

02.  Aubrey Organics GBP is one of those products that I use post relaxer to strengthen my strands.  I consider this a heavy protein product and because of this I use Glycogen Protein Balancer (GPB) sparingly. The main from of protein in GPB is derived from oyster shells.  What makes this product stand out is that it's all natural. Probably the only all natural conditioner I own.

03. Aphogee Keratin 2 minute reconstructor gets the most use.  It strengthens without creating the stiffness of its sister product, the Two Step Protein Treatment.  The main protein ingredients in this product are hydrolized keratin and hydrolized vegetable protein.

04.  Asience Conditioner is true to it's orient heritage by offering hydrolized pearl protein as it's active ingredient.  With every use, my hair responds accordingly. My strands are denser and breakage slows.  I have to use the right amount of this stuff otherwise I may veer into stiff hair category.  Truthfully, this is a solid product that I'm happy to have as a part of the team.

05.  Redken Extreme Strength Builder Plus is one of the newest additions to my regimen.  Not only does my hair get to enjoy hydrolized soy and vegetable proteins, it also gets to feast on yummy ceramides as well.  None of my other strengthening conditioners do this.  Because of this alone, this product is a staple.  Look out for a full review of Redken  Extreme in the future.

06. Finally, the baby of the group is Babyface pure protein.  Made of hydrolized collagen protein, it's the most concentrated of the bunch. I like the idea of adding a little or a lot of protein to my conditioning mix depending on my hair's needs.

I've used Babyface twice now and not once did I experience stiff hair.  In fact, it seemed to do the opposite.  My hair felt so balanced. The level of elasticity heightened.  I love this little baby.  I've officially granted it instant staple status.   Pure Protein is exactly what I needed. I'm always using moisturizing conditioners so now I can incorporate this into my regi every two weeks and fortify my hair without adverse effects.  This product is just too perfect.

Oh, did I mention that I emailed them yesterday about the benefits of using Babyface with a chemical service and here's their response.

|You can either do a treatment before the process, or just add it directly to the solution of any relaxer, perm or hair color. This will help to preserve the hair's natural keratin during the processing, resulting in less damage. And when coloring hair, it adds additional protein to the hair so the color lasts longer (the color sticks to the protein).  It is recommended to do a treatment after chemical processes also. This is a professional protein treatment, and was originally used exclusively in salons as a classic protein treatment and to add to chemical processes to help protect the hair during the treatment. 

1/2 capful should be enough - unless the hair being treated is extra long (mid-back length or longer). For a relaxer, we recommend doing a treatment afterward also, just because a relaxer is quite harsh on the hair. You wouldn't have to do it immediately, just the next time the hair is washed.  

I'm elated to give this baby a whirl come relaxer day.  Overall, I rate this product highly because it does it's job without the adverse effects of protein overload.  I'm not sure if it has to do with the type of protein used or if it's because I'm mixing with quality conditioners with high moisture levels.  The only drawback is the size of the bottle but I can also look at it as a good thing because it keeps me from going overboard with the protein usage.  Either way it's perfect for me and I'm happy to recommend to you as well.

Stay sexy my friends.

The simple idea that revolutionized my pre-poo experience

In the past, I would choose between oil or conditioner whenever I would pre-poo.  For those days when my hair was feeling overly dry, I'd reach for my favorite moisturizing conditioner.  On the other hand, if breakage was more of a concern or, if my hair felt like it needed a little more nourishment, oil would be my pre-poo product of choice.

Lately, there have been a few occasions where, due to schedule constraints, I've had to the extend time between washes.  When wash day arrived, my hair felt like it needed to receive the benefits of both oil and conditioner.  So I began a process that mirrored a daily moisturizing and sealing routine.  On dry hair, I would apply my moisturizing conditioner, then layer it with one of my favorite plant oils, sealing the moisture in.
This process worked so well for me that I've decided to make it permanent (for now).  Most recently, I had another one of those overdue wash days.  My hair was feeling like it needed an intensive "pick-me-up" so I decided to pre-poo with my WEN 613 layered with some yummy avocado oil.  Normally, when I deal with oils during pre-poo, I'm very generous in the application which causes me to get oil everywhere.  This time would be no different if it weren't for the bright idea inspired by my 613 bottle.

You see, the handy, dandy pump that comes on the WEN bottle make it easy for me to select the exact amount of product I need to use on each section of hair.  What if I could to the same with my avocado oil?   So I went scouring through my cabinets for a conditioner with a pump the size that would fit my oil bottle.  It only took 2 tries for me to reach success.  Moments later, I was neatly pumping oil  instead of picking up the bottle and pouring it into my hand, hoping that I hadn't misjudged how much oil I needed.  I could chose large or small pumps.  It was all so convenient.

Just wanted to share this neat tip in case someone out there might want to try it for themselves.  Each wash day, my intention is to make improvements to the process that create the best outcome for me & my hair.  If I couldn't find a pump to fit my oil bottle, I would have settled for one of these alternatives.

• I'd use a pop-top cap. The kind the pops up on one side when I push down on it.
• Finding an empty conditioner or lotion bottle with a pump and pouring my oil into it.  

Once the idea came, I had to make it work one way or another.  This saves me a time (since I don't have to pick up and put down my bottle of oil after each section) and hassle (it's a much neater alternative to the way I was doing it before).